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SPRING 2000 - NORTH CORNWALL & DEVON COAST PATH TINTAGEL TO BIDEFORD
(Boscastle, Bude, Elmscott, Westward Ho)
Thursday 8th June Tintagel to Boscastle 4.5 miles.
Travel day, arrangements were made to meet at the Wharncliff Hotel. Dick Grundy, Paul and Steve left Luton at 7.00 arriving at Tintagel about 12.00, an uneventful journey apart from nearly seeing a motorcyclist have an accident. Traffic flowed freely with only brief hold ups at Oxford and Swindon. Upon arrival at Tintagel lunch was taken, before a stroll to the castle, then along the coast path to find the Youth Hostel and back to the meeting place. After a pint there they moved on to the King Arthur for a pint of piddle in the sun were they met the others.
Roland, Pat and Andy left at 08.30 stopping at Oakhampton station to go train spotting and have some lunch before meeting the others at the King Arthur, and Roland had his 1st pastie. Dick and Roland moved cars while the others waited for Pete who had picked up Norman, Ian and Graham at Norman's again meeting at the King Arthur. It had not been a good move to the King Arthur, as despite having several ales found it difficult to serve a good one.
When we were all together again we set off for Boscastle along the coast path, Roland getting another pastie. What had been a sunny day clouded over but it stopped us getting to hot on the ups and downs that followed. After arriving at the Hostel we sorted out cars for the next day, showered and made our way to The Wellington Hotel for food and drink, Roland had a pastie.
Friday 9th June Boscastle to Bude 16.5 miles.
The 1st order of business was to sort out the evenings accommodation, as 2 persons could not stay at the pub, this was done by means of a draw, much to the amusement of the others in the hostel, Steve and Pat "losing out". Graham made a new friend at the hostel, a charming lad, the true "nutter on the bus". After breakfast serious stuff, the walk to Bude along the coast path.
The walk was spilt into sections 1st Boscastle to Crackington Haven, then on to Widemouth Bay, finally on to Bude.
The weather had started of with rain at breakfast, which cleared so that when we started walking, it was fine. As we walked it started to drizzle which developed into rain, continuing for a while. As we approached Rusey Cliff, it became misty turning into thick fog by High Cliff, just where there was a diversion on the path. Whilst in the fog a herd of cattle could be heard but not seen until we were in the middle of them. By the time we got to Little Strand the fog was clearing and the sun was trying to shine, we continued on to Crackington Haven to the Coombe Barton Hotel for light refreshment and sustenance, also a chance to dry out a little. Roland had a pastie.
It had been quite tough going on some of the ups and downs, some had steps others were just steep climbs, all in all hard work.
After a brief stop it was on again to Widemouth Bay and the Bay View hotel, but first you had to get there. The only good news was it stayed fine, not only were there more ups and downs, they proved to be harder than those of the morning, particularly around Dizzard. Andy, Paul and Graham, pushed on ahead to get a drink at the Bay View Hotel only to find it was closed, despite efforts to encourage the bar person to open it was to no avail. It was taking longer to do this stretch so thoughts of the pub disappeared and a café was sought. Being the start of the season there were no teashops open at any of the beaches we crossed until we reached Widemouth Bay. After a stop for a cuppa it was on to Bude the last section was easy going just steady climbs up and down. We all met at the Brendon Arms Hotel where John and Sarah also joined us.
After a quick pint Dick, John and Sarah moved Dick's car to Elmscott before returning and getting ready for the night's entertainment. Most of the others had already done this with the exception of Roland (his stuff was in his car at Boscastle), Pete and Norman who were last to arrive. Roland used Dicks shower gel but did not get his clothes until after dinner, as Pete wanted to shower before driving.
Dinner was great the best food of the weekend and the beer was good also. After we had eaten we went into town to see the nightlife. We found two pubs, Carriers and The Globe, The Globe had karaoke with lots of youngsters trying to "sing", whilst Carriers had a slightly older clientele. We returned to our hotel for last orders so we could keep drinking as residents into the small hours. As we were drinking Andy kept telling people the tale of the Wain Stones, ask him for the full story.
Saturday 10th June Bude to Elmscott 15 miles.
Bude to Elmscott around the coast path. After hearing tales that we had a harder walk than yesterday several people lightened their packs before leaving. The weather was much better with sun and a light breeze.
The walking was not to bad, after a gentle start to loosen us up, we again got into the ups and downs, most of us got lunch at The Bush Inn in Morwenstow. However by the time Roland, Pete and Norman had arrived no food was available, so they went to the tea rooms round the corner where Roland had another pasty. As they were now well behind the others, they decided to get a taxi back to Bude, to get their cars and food for breakfast the next morning? The others carried on walking to Elmscott; there was not much to mention on the walk, a few buzzards were seen also a pair of Peregrines. Upon arrival at the hostel Dick and John went back to get John's car, leaving the others to get ready.
The evening's entertainment was limited due to lack of pubs nearby. Andy who had called the Hartland Quay Hotel for a number of a local taxi firm had overcome this, they had a mini bus and it was arranged that they would return us to the hostel. Roland made several trips down to the hotel ferrying people, as they were ready, Dick took Roland in his car for the last trip so that only one car was left there overnight. The hotel was a bitter disappointment, as they had no good beer and the food was average, still we managed to have sustenance and refreshments. There were several pictures around the walls of times gone by which were quite interesting. After dinner Andy started his after dinner speech with the lines have I told you about the Wain stones …? To which we all replied yes. By now it was time to return to the hostel the end of another good day.
As time came for lights out Roland looked out of the window and was confronted by a face outside asking for a bed for the night, he was refused. We had locked the door after returning so he could not get in, after some commotion he crashed in the porch but was gone by the time we got up in the morning. When we spoke to the warden in the morning, he said that he had checked with the police and kept an eye on him, no more was heard of him.
Sunday 11th June Elmscott to Clovelly/Bucks Mills 11/14 miles.
Breakfast was a self-cook arrangement hampered by the lack of facilities. Dick cooked bacon and sausages, Andy poached eggs, and Ian made toast everybody else set the table, ate and cleared up. No reports of food poisoning were received, all fuelled up for the days walking.
The weather was fine but not so sunny, just as well as some of us had caught the sun on Saturday. Today's walk was from Elmscott to Clovelly, again staying on the coast path.
Pete and Pat did not walk, Pat had blisters on his heel so gave them a rest, Pete took Pat to get Dick's car arranging to meet at Clovelly later in the day.
All others set of for the coast path, getting any stiffness out of the way before the ups and downs. The walking was steady until we got to Upright Cliff near Hartland Point. Roland did not fancy the climb so went off on another path going inland and around the back of Hartland Point, the rest of us went on up a climb that was not as hard as it looked. We met Roland at a tea shop in the car park at Hartland Point where he told us of his exploits, an overgrown path with waist high nettles (just what you need when in shorts), lack of a bridge to get across a stream, this resulted in the use of a tree as a temporary bridge which broke when tried. Roland was lucky however only getting one leg and one foot wet with lots of stings which he showed us, not a pretty sight! Never mind, he had another pasty.
After a rest, food and a drink it was on with the walking which was no to bad apart from a couple of steep up and downs, one at Windbury Point and the other at Mouth Mill. At Mouth Mill there were two routes, one along tarmac paths and the other straight up the cliff. As we (Dick, Steve, John and Sarah) had done the rest we went for the direct path up the cliff, it was a scramble with the path hardly discernible (perhaps if we could have seen it we would not have gone), but after much slipping and sliding we made it. There was just the walk into Clovelly left although only a couple of miles it seemed to go on forever. As we came down into Clovelly we saw Pat, Ian and Graham in the Land Rover taxi going up the hill (cheats), Pat was going to take Graham and Ian back to Norman's in Dicks car to pick there car up to go home.
When we arrived at the Red Lion Pete was waiting in the bar, he said that Andy and Paul had gone on to walk on to Bucks Mills, we dropped our packs and quenched our thirst whilst waiting for Roland and Norman to finish walking and Pat to get back with Dick's car. None of us minded sitting on the Harbour wall in the sun though. After we were all refreshed, Pete went to the B&B's (at Westward Ho) whilst the drivers went to get the cars and collect Paul and Andy at Bucks Mill, meeting the rest at the B&B. when we were all washed and changed we walked to the Pig in the Hill for food and drink, very good it was as well.
Monday 12th June Westwood Ho to Bideford 8 miles.
Again a fine day but more of a breeze and very hazy.
Pete took Andy and Paul to Bucks Cross so they could complete the whole section from Clovelly to Bideford. Dick, John and Roland moved cars to Bideford and tried to park where Norman had suggested for free, it turned out it was only for an hour and right outside the police station. So another car park was found. Roland taking Dick and John back to meet the others walking to Bideford, Roland soon had to leave us as he had to go to Exeter and pick up Alison as they were staying on for a while.
The walking was fine, flat after what we had been used to, but welcome before the drive home. The last section after Appledore Shipyards seemed to drag on however. It had been arranged to meet at The Kings Arms for light refreshment as there was a Fish and chip shop next door, which had been recommended by Norman, the fish was great. Andy and Paul just made it in time for Fish and chips before it closed at 14.00. We left for home at 14.50 getting home at 19.15 just in time to see England lose to Portugal.
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